The use of small-scale physical models is a key tool in coastal engineering for representing phenomena such as wave propagation and the effects of coastal structures in breaking zones. This study presents the design and construction of a small-scale physical model applied to Playa Carpayo, located on the coast of Callao, Peru. Vertical and horizontal hydraulic similarity scales of 1:16.7 and 1:180.5, respectively, were used based on Froude similarity, with base maps generated from satellite imagery (Google Earth) and bathymetric data (NAVIONICS and DIHIDRONAV). The model was built in the wave-generating channel of the Laboratory of Hydraulics and Physical Models at EPIMF-FCF-UNMSM, allowing the simulation of wave transformation between T- and L-shaped groynes. Measurements were taken at two representative points: 100 m and 50 m from the prototype shoreline, recording significant wave...

The Directorate of Hydrography and Navigation (DHN) from Peruvian Navy has implemented a coastal wave forecasting system at the principal bays from Peruvian coast for the purpose to provide early warnings due the extreme wave conditions, that allows to DHN order the close of the main ports for the safety of fishermen and ships. The model used was Delft3D-WAVE, which was used on a stationary basis and run daily in an operational manner. To corroborate the results obtained, it was validated with in situ measurements for approximately 1 year, obtaining a correlation coefficient of 0.62 in the wave height and 0.55 in the wave direction, between the measured and modeled. The results are available on the DHN website.

Wave Data in Deep water (outside wave generation zone at depth more than 500m) from 3 location in Perú were analyzed from 1979 to 2017 from NOAA reanalysis Data Base obtained with Wave Watch Simulation for global waves with 0.5°x0.5° spatial resolution. A time series was obtained to represent normal conditions and extreme event including El Niño and La Niña Phenomenon, thus extraordinary El Niño (EN) occurred in 1982-1983 and 1997-1998. Wave time series were calibrated with NOAA buoy data called 32012 from NDBC and satellite date obtained from GEOSAT, ENVISAT, JASON 1, ERS1, ERS2 y TOPEX/POSEIDON. Thus, a calibrated time series were obtained with an interval of 3 hours. Results shows that during EN the predominant significant wave height reached 1.5 to 2.5 m, and it represent an incremented around 1cm respect normal conditions, while wave period predominant range is around 13.5 to ...

The wave dynamics in Chancay Bay is represented by the Delft3D numerical model, whose application is referred to the propagation and calibration of the waves in the WAVE module through the Copernicus ERA5 database and comparison with field measurements of the hologram of the Directorate of Hydrography and Navigation. (DIHIDRONAV) for medium and maximum regime conditions, in order to determine the Run Up of waves in areas of human development with the Van Der Meer and Stem methodology. In this sense, the topography of the ALOS PALSAR sentinel was extracted to determine the flood zones within the coast, whose representation is given by the length and height of the wave reached.

El presente artículo tiene como objetivo representar las corrientes inducidas por oleaje en las zonas cercanas al puerto de Ilo, con el uso del software SMC y un programa de desarrollo propio en Matlab. En el presente estudio se utilizó para el módulo de oleaje la aproximación parabólica de RefDif, para un modelo de oleaje monocromático. El modelo numérico desarrollado en Matlab permite representar la hidrodinámica de olas y corrientes inducidas basado en las ecuaciones de Navier Stokes y conservación de masa, en forma diferencial con dos dimensiones espaciales (x, y) y una temporal (t). Este modelo se desarrolló tomando en consideración las variables promediadas en el eje vertical z y calado variable, considerando el fenómeno de asomeramiento y refracción que sufren las olas al acercarse a la zona costera de aguas poco profundas. El modelo desarrollado en Matlab se validó ...

To determinate the wave climate in deep water o˙ the Peruvian coast, instrumental data from satellite and buoys was employed to calibrate wave reanalysis from NCEP for the period 1979 to 2017. Wave data was calibrated using an exponential model described by Minguez et al. (2011). The results shows correlation coe°cient values between 0.7 to 0.9, also BIAS and RMSE showed acceptable values, which indicate a good approximation between both information databases. We have obtained wave information in deep waters which can be used to analyze average an extremely wave regimes to study coastal processes, and study the in˛uence of El NIÑO and La NIÑA phenomenon in the study area. This calibrated wave time series reveals that the average conditions for wave height is around 2 m, with maximum heights over 4 m. De predominant direction is from Southest for the northern and center zones, and So...